For this elegant piece, I drew inspiration from one of my favorite animes "Sailor Moon" as a girl I've always loved the series and that love stayed with me to adulthood. My favorite Sailor Senshi is sailor Neptune who is the soldier of the seas! She adorns herself in shades of teal, sea greens, and ocean blues. For this project I will use teal and seafoam colored fabrics!
The fabric used for this dress is so luxurious, vibrant, and sturdy that beyond this dress I would reach for it if I was making a garment for prom, a wedding, or any other occasion that calls for something lavish and dramatic.
Let me walk you through my journey to creating this lavish gown and making my magical girl cosplay dreams come true!
To get started you will need the following things!
- 3 yards of crepe back satin
- Mccalls 6030 sewing pattern
- 1 yard of lining
- 3 yards of sheer voile
- 1 14" invisible zipper
- A thread that matches your fabric
- sewing machine
- Sewing duckbill clips
- Button snaps
- Ruffle foot
- Ridgeline Boning
- Satin dressmaking pins
- Serger ( optional)
LET'S GET STARTED!
The first step in the pattern is to cut out all your pieces and press them to ensure they're nice and flat. Then, lay them on the fashion fabric as instructed. It's super important to pay attention to the pattern instructions at this step. Pin your pieces down to the fabric using satin pins sparingly. Satin doesn't heal and so every pin used leaves a permanent hole in the fabric. Once your pattern pieces are secured to the fashion fabric you can begin the cutting process. Repeat this process for the lining pieces as well until all the pieces you need to make this garment are cut out.
- Once all your pattern pieces are cut, start with the bodice lining. As instructed by your pattern, align all your bodice pieces and paste them to keep them in place before sewing. Once you have done this, it's time to run your bodice through the machine to secure the pieces together. Satin is a very slippery fabric so take your time with this. Once you have completed this step for the lining do the same for your main fashion fabric. Both pieces should look the same after you're done.
- Once you have secured the lining bodice pieces to each other it's time to add boning to the channels. For the boning, I used plastic Rigilene boning. This type of boning can be sewn into the fabric directly. Gently do this using your machine, making sure to secure all sides of the boning to the garment. Once this is complete you can now secure the lining to the fashion fabric bodice.
- To do this you will lay both the bodice lining and bodice fashion fabric right sides together and stitch the top slowly, staying aware of the bodice curves. Once this is complete, carefully clip the top edges before turning the bodice inside out. When this is complete, the fashion fabric should be on the outside and the boning channels on the inside. Using a pressing cloth and an iron on low heat gently press the bodice so that the lining doesn't show on the outside of the bodice.
- Following the pattern, the next step is to sew the 2 back skirt pieces together and hem the bottom. Use sewing clips to complete this step you will pin these pieces together from the bottom leaving a 10" section at the top open so that you can install the zipper later. After securing the 2 back pieces together, its time to pin the back piece to the front skirt panel using the same method of securing the pieces with clips and sewing carefully on your machine.
- Once you have completed this step you are now ready to attach the bodice to the skirt. Using sewing clips, align your bodice carefully and cautiously to ensure the seams of the bodice line up with the seams on the skirt. Stitch the pieces together slowly, keeping caution when sewing around bumps and curves. Once this step is complete, it's time to install the zipper.
- To install the zipper you will need to lay the zipper onto the garment with the garment turned inside out. You will lay the zipper outside of your seam allowance and gently pin it into place making sure both sides are even. Once the zipper is secured with pins take it to your machine and stitch.
- With your zipper installed it's time to sew and add straps to your garment. Take the pieces you cut out for your straps, fold them in half and stitch. To turn your straps inside out use a loop turner. After your straps are complete, install them on to the bodice of your garment. For a touch of elegance, I sewed buttons above the seams of my straps. Once you have done this your dress is complete!
- Because this dress was for Sailor Neptune I decided to go all the way with this project and make a detachable overskirt to match the dress. To do this cut out 2 rectangles of voile. One measuring 30 inches in length and the other 60 inches in length
- Just like satin, this fabric easily frays as well. To prevent it from coming apart, I took it to my serger and overlocked the edges. Only leave the top of each rectangle unserged because I would be attaching them later.
- To attach the rectangle pieces you will pin them together and straight stitch them, taking into consideration to stitch as close to the top as possible. Once this is complete, you will move on to ruffling your overskirt pieces. To ruffle these pieces, you will need a ruffle foot, setting the attachment to make ruffles every 6 stitches. Gently feed the overskirt through the machine until you are left with thick pleats on the top of the fabric.
- After this, pin your overskirt to the fabric using the pins as a placement marker. Attach button snaps to both the dress and overskirt sections in the marked places to keep the overskirt secured to the dress.
Once you have completed this you will be left with a dress that draws attention and admiration!